Wine producer boom

Aspiran took the European Weekend of Heritage (patrimoine) seriously this year and included in the events and exhibitions was a display covering wine. Specifically highlighted were the Aspiran producers who now number 10, along with the cave cooperative (Clochers & Terroirs).

The longest established are Domaine de Fabrègues (1835) and Chateau Malautié (1900). Domaine des Montèzes arrived in 1995 having been displaced by the building of the A75 autoroute above Lodeve. The grapes around their Aspiran property apparently go to the cooperative with wine being made on site from grapes brought down from their Pégairolles de l’Escalette vineyards.

It was after 2000 that new arrivals took root, possibly fuelled by the decline of the cooperative before relatively recently joining the Clochers & Terroirs clan of cooperatives. Domaines Mon Mourel, Ribiera, Clos Mathelisse, Villa Symposia, des dimanches and most recently Gregory White and Mas Troqué complete the list.

Interestingly several producers in nearby villages have vineyards in the commune, ones I know about being Mas Costefere (Adissan), Julien Peyras (Paulhan) and Domaine les Quatre Amours (Bélarga).

Wine from almost all the producers can be purchased from the Aspiran Tabac which is by the village crossroads.

Tap Water

According to the Midi Libre in 2014 Aspiran had tap water pesticide levels at least 25% above the norm, a worrying phenomenon that impacts 33,500 inhabitants from 9 communes of the Hérault. In the summer of 2014 what was effectively a hose pipe ban was inroduced for Aspiran after several years of below average rainfall. 

Responsibility for providing tap water falls with the Mairie. A couple of years ago a new source of good quality was identified in the area called la Plaine very close to the Hérault river opposite the village of Tressan. Only at the end of 2014 was a tender issued to exploit the source.

This summer work is in progress to build the well and lay a pipeline some 2 Km long up to the village from where it can be processed and pumped to the water tower atop of Les Pins. Total cost is around 670,000 € and planned to be on tap by the end of the year.

Repas du Village 2014 - changes

The annual village eve of Bastille Day meal saw changes this year. First of all it was moved to the 12th July from the 13th to avoid conflict with the World Cup football final. It also moved back to the Place du Peyrou after 2 years on the Pétanque pitch. A live group was replaced by a disc jockey, not a bad move considering half decent musicians will have been in big demand. As compensation there was a a live spectacle of dancing can-can style to get everyone into the mood.

Another change was the return after many years of the BBQ by the church wall. Having cooked some excellent sausages the shot below captures lamb chops for 750.

Fête de la Musique

In France, the Fête de la Musique has been going since 1982 when it was initiated by the culture ministry. The idea is for musicians across the spectrum perform for free on the longest day of they year (and well into the following day). Most towns and villages erect a stage and provide a buvette for 7+ hours of live concerts.

The village has never seriously participated beyond the independent efforts of the Café de la poste. This year saw the first Mairie organised event, at least this century. A new Mayor was elected this spring so plaudits and complaints go to the Mairie. Given the big turnout the evening was a resounding success. No doubt a balmy evening and the 21st June being a Saturday this year helped.

Café de la Poste

The Café de la Poste takes it's name from the former post office next door, the stonework engravings are well preserved. Founded in 1903 it has outlived three other village cafés during that time.

Spring 2013 saw the arrival of a new owner Alain. Before then it was more functional as a café and bar with a somewhat basic restaurant. Arguably somewhere to go out of necessity than pleasure, rustic would have been a polite description of the wine for example. One year on and while little has changed physically beyond some improved lighting and a splash of paint, the atmosphere and events have been transformed.

Wednesday night is (loosely) Jazz and Blues with an open stage to all comers. Thursday is Karaoke. Most Saturday nights feature a band. The scene below is from an Easter dinner with music and wines to partner the meal including village producer Villa Symposia (wines also available in the bar).

Facebook users can keep up to date at Café de la poste.

Deluge then Drought

The Garelle frequently all but dries up in summer and in the many dry winters of recent years has been barely a trickle. So far 2014 has been worryingly dry and as the photos above show so is the Garelle. Even the pools and damp moss patches have gone. The UK has witnessed the wettest winter on record in places.

By contrast March 2013 was the wettest here since perhaps 1946; it was in Montpellier with 215 mm and north of Montpellier around the Pic St Loup 2013 had the wettest March on record. These pictures from the same spots were taken after these rains.

2013 also saw late spring rains. As well as losing all the almond crop in March several varieties of apricots were lost in April and May to flowering inhibiting deluges. At the time of typing there is little rain in the forecast.

The new Tabac

Tabacs in France are institutions and survive reasonably well thanks to the law where prices are fixed and licences to sell tobacco products are based on local population figures. Supermarkets can't sell tobacco although a Tabac is often attached. They also diversify somewhat; the Aspiran Tabac sells newspapers, magazines, lottery tickets, scratch cards, confectionery, greetings cards, postcards, drinks, wine, gifts, various domestic replacements and even flowers. Since the closure of the village "La Poste" the Tabac has provided postal services boosted by significantly longer opening hours. Even photocopying services are offered.

A new couple have taken over and injected some energy into the operation. They converted their ground floor cave next door into a swish cosy new Tabac that opened in the autumn 2013. The previous Tabac (on the right in the photo) was rented so the relocation has saved ongoing costs.

Chrysanthemums for sale. Most will have been placed in the cemetery for Toussaint (1st November).

A handsome selection of local wines are stocked, including selections from four of the communes' independent domains.

Notre Dame de la Paix

Our lady of the peace sits among the pine trees atop the southern most hill of Les Pins. Despite the whole structure being 9.5m high she's hard to spot from the village, although in the right light there's a good view from the entrance to the Tabac. Constructed in 1904 the statue weighs 1,750 kilograms. Cast in the foundry at Tusey of Vaucouleurs in Meuse (Lorraine) it arrived by train at Aspiran station.

On the night of 25/26 August 1944 the lady was credited with miraculously protecting the village from hoards of vandals.

In 2011 the statue was given a complete makeover, my photo from 2004 is included as a comparison.

10 Observaions on figs

Of all the sauvage foods available figs, at least for those who like them, reign supreme.

2013 has been an unusual year by the standards of the last decade. Record rains in March mean the water table has been restored to levels not seen for years. A cold spring has resulted in everything running some 2 weeks late, including the vendanges, although touch wood the grapes are healthy so far. Something invariably fails each season, but this year there are extra casualties. Commercial and wild almonds are non-existent due to a false spring back in February. Most varieties of apricots failed to set because of rain and cold. There are few wild quinces on the way. Pomegranates struggle to ripen during the best years and seem to have no chance now.

On a more positive note the improved water table along with a few summer downpours have created a bumper year for blackberries - plentiful and not the usual pip-bullets. Earlier in the summer local cherries has a bonanza. Now figs are also doing well with some particularly water stressed trees making a comeback.


Here are 10 factoids and observations on local figs.

1. Many varieties have two seasons. The first, typically towards the end of June, sees what are called figue fleurs sprout from last year's new growth. After a pause that can be several weeks these are followed by the main crop. Figue fleurs make for particularly fragrant and succulent eating.
2. The commune has perhaps 30 wild fig trees that are both accessible (i.e. next to a lane) and reliable croppers. About half of these have two seasons.
3. Some trees never seem to produce figs. Others only produce inedible dry fibrous specimens (caprifigs).
4. All figs start off small and pastel green. As they ripen they end up various shades of purple, reds, grey and green through to yellow. The French classify them as figues vertes (ou blanches), figues grises (ou rouges) et figues noires (ou violettes) basically green/white, grey/red and black/violet.
5. Some figs ripen and eventually drop, others rot on the tree while a few, typically the purple varieties, dry in situ given the right weather.
6. A tree is capable of ripening a fig in a few days so returning a couple a days later in search of more ripe specimens is worthwhile.
7. Most trees seem to take a sabbatical occasionally and produce next to nothing; often the year following a bumper crop.
8. Identifying varieties by inspection and leaf patterns is tricky and near impossible for purple and green varieties.Obvious varieties include Madeleine des Deux Saisons and Grise de Saint-Jean (9 pm and 11 pm respectively in the picture).
9. Green varieties have one season and are the last to get going. They continue well after other varieties are exhausted and large trees with favourable weather can continue to ripen their crop into the second half of October.
10. I find the purple varieties have the most complex flavour. Grise de Saint-Jean are the sweetest. Slightly under ripe green varieties make the best confiture.

Enviromental Graffiti

This graffiti can be seen from the bend in the road to Lieuran-Cabrières on the hill heading out of Aspiran. OK, this isn't a Banksy, but the message is more than worthwhile.

Such is the concern over pesticides and agricultural chemicals entering the water table the Mairie has purchased 10 hectares of land surrounding the borehole near the river Hérault (sector La Plaine). To protect the supply of tap water to the village the land will be kept free from pesticides and herbicides.

Marché bio, la ferme Lous Selces

This summer sees a monthly Organic market at la ferme Lous Selces (see this post). Go from 17h on the first Friday of the month, the first took place on 7th June.

There were stalls with Young plants, bread, Lozere honey, infusions, superb olive oil from Nebian, wine from Aspiran's Domaine Ribiera and cheese from the Larzac, plus of course the seasonal vegetables and eggs from the farm itself. Over 100 attendees were reported, an excellent start.

Lous Selces is on the route to Lieuran-Cabrières 1 Km from the edge of the village, the long polytunnel gives it away. Their produce shop on the site opens Wednesday and Friday from 16h to 19h. Next dates for the marché bio will be the 5th July, 2nd August and 6th September.

Vintage and current rally car exhibition

I only caught the tail end of this event on a sunny Sunday in early June. No less than the head of the Porch team J.-M. Almeras attended and answered questions.

Money raised from the snacks and drinks bar will fund school trips for the Jean-de-la-Fontaine school.

Paradise? Not quite. Part 1

Readers of this blog could easily perceive Aspiran as some kind of paradise. Here are 10 realities to balance such an assessment. Not all are negatives or gripes with several having experienced significant improvement in recent years. In no particular order, bar the first one, these are the first 5.

Dog s**t

Changing attitudes is the main challenge and nothing is being done. The Mairie stops at words. Providing poo bags and bins at key sites would be a first step; this is what towns such as Pézenas started doing a few years ago, although the reality of being a tourist town must help overcome politics.

A bigger challenge is to address the dogs let out to roam the streets all day.


Car parking
In a region where unemployment is well above the French national average, Aspiran is expanding and relatively prosperous; the school was recently extended for example. The growth of Montpellier and the completion of a fast connecting road makes the area popular for commuters so families typically need two or more motors. Everyone likes to park near their home and the French are masters at creative parking. Minimal anti-vehicle furniture and road paint on the streets and squares is an attraction, but for how long.

Empty properties Houses in the central narrow streets may be quaint and ooze character but they have disadvantages. A lack of outside space and the challenge of winter heating makes new builds more attractive. Building a new home from scratch is also cheaper than renovating. Romantic village houses are popular with second home buyers but that market has dived since the 2008 financial crisis. French inheritance laws also mean properties can be left empty and decaying for years. On a more positive note plenty of renovation work goes on.

Lottisements

On balance this is a good news development. New housing is an essential reality of the modern world and a prosperous living village. When seen from the countryside the Mairie has done a pretty good job with sensitively locating new developments.


Rubbish and recycling

Ten years ago there were communal poubelles for all waste. Now big recycling containers are dotted around the village and each home is issued with a green bin for organic waste along with a black one for general rubbish. Many homes have no inside storage space so the bins live on the streets. Nevertheless, the system seems to work well although diligent recycling households lament at why the green bin is only collected once a week while the inert general waste is up twice weekly (for those with small bins). Fish stinks within 24 hours in 30 degree heat.

Paradise? Not Quite. Part 2

This is Part 2 with realities 6 to 10 that challenge the perception of Aspiran as some kind of paradise. Not all are negatives or gripes,  a few have seen significant improvement in recent years.

Demise of the wine co-operative

The wine co-operative was, and to a lesser extent still is, as important to the local economy as coal mines to mining communities. The number of members has declined; the young move on and many have taken EU payments to grub up their vines and plant other crops. The co-op still receives the grape harvest but the juice,  along with that of many neighbouring villages, is tankered off to the state of the art winery at nearby Puilacher to make Clochers et Terroirs. Some nearby co-operatives still go it alone and do well - Addisan, Cabrières and Fontès to be specific.
On the plus side there are six independent producers established in the commune.

Dead vineyards

The use of chemicals on vines such as weed killers belongs in a bygone era. The vineyard above has compacted ground and supports little life beyond the deep rooted vines. The picture below is an adjacent vineyard photographed at the same time.

While organic or equivalent practices involve a little more work,  the bio-diversity they encourage makes visiting the paysage a delight. This is actually a good news story as the rise of independent vignerons is resulting in more and more healthier looking vineyards.

Scooters

Scooters are noisy and pollute heavily but do provide affordable private transport for the young. Screaming round the village streets for the hell of it is something else.


There are winters

Mediterranean winters are short and mild, but this is a northern outpost of the Med and the 750m plateau of the Larzac to the north is nearer than the sea. Most winters see a day or two of snow and in 2012 unprotected outside water meters froze with many needing replacing. Residents stay indoors and the village is seriously quiet.

Aircon units - the new TV aerials

TV aerials and satellite dishes are generally roof mounted so invisible from the narrow streets. Gutters and drainpipes at least help keep the rain off pedestrians and façades.

Reversible air conditioning has become all the rage in recent years and for many homes this means mounting them on the outside street-side walls. At least modern units are quiet.

Ruisseau de la Garelle

Aspiran is sited in the gap created by the Garelle in the side of the Hérault valley. It frequently all but dries up in summer and in recent dry winters has been barely a trickle. March 2013 has been the wettest March since perhaps 1946; it was in Montpellier with 215 mm and near the Pic St Loup north of Montpellier the wettest March on record.

The source of the Garelle, rather unromantically no more than a series of drainage ditches by vineyards, is barely a Km from the village off the Rue Saint-Georges.

 

From the bridge on Rue de la Chapelle

  

The gué (ford) by Rue de Souville down from the port on Rue de l'Enfer

Pomegranates and Quinces

Pomegranates along with Quinces are the last of the autumn fruits (not counting olives). It's rare in these latitudes to get a ripe specimen, invariably they're seedy, tart and split open before they ripen. This tree is in a sheltered valley and south facing, plus perhaps this year an August heatwave and autumn rains came at the right time to swell their flesh.

Quinces are quite common but the wild trees suffer from boring insect infestation, although this doesn't stop foragers racing to strip the trees before they fully ripen. Fortunately excellent ripe and perfumed specimens are available in markets.

2012 Vin Primeur

Nébian Cave

These days the Aspiran Cave Cooperative is part of Clochers and Terroirs, an enormous operation by any standards. Eleven central Hérault valley villages have combined forces and represent some 850 grape growers with 2,800 hectares of vines. Production is 200,000 hl that equates to over 26 million bottles, although most will go into popular 10 litre BIBs (bag-in-box).

Every other cooperative seems to make Vin Primeur these days, typically a red wine and made to be drunk within weeks of the harvest. At Clochers and Terroirs the launch of the new vintage is an opportunity for villagers to have a convivial apero or three and be subjected to mercifully brief thank you speeches.

I'm told the Aspiran cave hasn't hosted one of these for many years. Along with Paulhan, the cave at Nébian is the nearest Clochers and Terroirs outlet. Inside, the cave could easily host a tennis match plus audience in a space surrounded by dozens of now defunct double-decker cuves.

The wine itself mercifully doesn't overdo the fruit and has a pleasant dry adult finish. Given this year's harvest is down 25% in the commune it was a very generous event.

Aspiran the grape variety

The Béziers médiathèque is an impressive new building just to the east of the town centre. An exhibition "150 years of grape varieties in the Languedoc" has a display of lithographs of grape varieties by Henri Marès published in 1890. This is one of them.

My translation "Probably a very old variety originating from the Bas-Languedoc.
Long living, the aspiran variety displays an elegant poise and shape in its leaves and bunches. In the departments of the Bas-Languedoc it is [in 1890] usually the preferred table grape for eating. It is delicious and wholesome and very moreish, one can east vast quantities. No other variety is lighter, more agreeable and easier to digest".

To my knowledge this is the only French planted grape variety named after a local place, or at least a small village (Syrah derives from Shiraz in Persia, now Iran). Today Aspiran seems to be better known under the synonym Ribeyrenc, but that said the grape is seriously rare with just a handful of vines growing in a few Languedoc domaines. It seems following the phylloxera epidemic and frosts of 1956 the variety was not replanted.

Other references I have found are Wikipedia en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aspiran_Noir
And a fiche in French from INRA

The dossier on the médiathèque exhibition is here (for now) dossier-cepage.pdf

Migrating Buzzards

I saw these birds of prey soaring in thermals near the village in mid-September, sadly the pictures don't do justice to the majesty of the scene.

I've subsequently read they're most likely to be European Honey Buzzards (Pernis apivorus) migrating back to Africa. Populations concentrate as they approach the Mediterranean with at least 40 birds in this flock already. This group should eventually make it to Gibraltar for the short sea crossing into Africa.

Éoliennes coming this way?

Wind turbines (éoliennes) have started to become a part of the Hérault landscape over the past 10 years or so. The farm at Aumes is the nearest to Aspiran at 14 Km (9 miles) to the south of east and clearly visible on the horizon across the valley.

Wind farm at Aumes seen from the commune

According to Aspiran Info No. 42 a feasibility study will start in the autumn of 2012 looking at the area in the commune known as Coste-Ferre as a possible wind farm site. This area forms the ridge that runs to the right and parallel to the route to Adissan and a farm here would be a dominant feature visible from much of the land in the western half of the commune. However, for many of the village dwellings the éoliennes will be out of sight. This will not be the case for Peret and much of Adissan where the farm is sure to dominate the vista.